Becker/Harmon Kardon's Phone Install instructions.
Like Ron, I use a Motorola phone, and a Motorola phone kit. Motorola was completely useless in the install, the Installation Guide in the online User's Manual was a joke. I guess they expect everyone to use a "professional installer"- but they had none to recommend. Two Tweeters stores refused to do it. The manual that comes with the kit is better- see diagram below. No matter, it's easy. There were 3 kinds of Motorola phone kits. One that uses the cigarette lighter adapter and makes use of none of the Traffic Pro features and is cheap. One for the non-Bluetooth phones the one that Ron Stygar used. Then the most expensive one, the Bluetooth phone car kit ($209). Some poking around the Internet found the Motorola phone kit for significantly less than from Motorola ($149). You'll see if you read Ron's phone install notes he spent most of his time finding a suitable place for the phone cradle and ended up giving up his armrest storage, drilling, cutting. Uh uh.

Disconnect Battery:
Even though it's highly unlikely this will have any effect on your electrical system, better safe than sorry, disconnect your battery before you begin. Natch if you do, you have to reset your clock, have your TP radio code handy and other model specific-items- like in a Z3 reset your automatic windows (hold down button).

Speaker Out to Aux In:
For Aux In you can get the kit from Becker and put the pins in yourself:
Originally Posted by TxnBluDvl:
I have more information re the HK Traffic Pro and pins 13 and 14. There is a special part that needs to be ordered, Becker part number 1319.116-276. It includes the pins and ends in one RCA out. All of this comes with the Aux in kit. The two pins somehow turn into one RCA out, I'm not sure how. I wonder if I'll just have to hack off the RCA input or if there's a convenient radio shack way to mate to this RCA input...
Or you can have the fine folks at Continental Imports add the pins and the RCA jack to my Blaupunkt Aux In cable (p/n 7-607-897-093) for a nominal fee, like I did when I ordered the Blaupunkt cable for my iPod install:

Pin 13 is positive, Pin 14 is ground. You can buy the RCA female jack and add that yourself if you like.

Cut off the kit speaker. It's just plain speaker wire. Leave a lot of length, cut the wire off near the speaker. I dont know what other use a person could have for the car kit speaker, but waste not want not, leave a little tail on the speaker. Then add the RCA male head on the speaker wire:

positive in the center, ground on the outside

Kit speaker wire had a dashed line instead of a stripe to indicate the positive wire that went to the center of the male RCA jack.

OK so you will be plugging the rca male jack from the car kit's output (speaker) into the female RCA jack added to the Aux In cable. Obviously you dont have to use the rca jacks, but it's tidy.
In my case I am replacing the Red Traffic Pro connector with the Blue Aux In connector.

(See Ins and Outs to determine your best arrangement. Depending on your car model and Traffic Pro model you might be using the Red connector and wiring pin 13 and 14 into that instead.)

So I had the Aux In cable organized, here's the kit:

Next the phone kit needs to connect to the Traffic Pro phone mute and connect to power from your car.


From the Users Manual in the kit:

Connect Phone Mute:
When they are talking about colored wires, they are referring to the thin wires in the rainbow bundle at the top of my photo above. Referring to the Ins and Outs pages I found the telephone mute wire into the Traffic Pro (chamber A3 for the 4771) and had one cousin splice it to the thin orange wire. (Later Jon and I had to do it again because it needs to be fished behind the console- oops.)

Connect Power:
The thicker red, green and black wires you see on the right side bottom of my photo I am guessing would be used in a power connection that unlike mine, had to be set up. DaveT had already done this for me while hardwiring my V1 radar detector in February 2001. There are extensive photos and step by step instructions on Dave's pages on the Book of UNGO and MZ3.net on finding power sources in the Z3 models. My power connection is a bit different than most people's DaveT built a "mating connector" for the connector in the gearshift boot area of my car that is actually meant to power a BMW phone. I read over DaveT's notes on how he wired my car in the Book of UNGO pages. (He was also building a mating connector for his Garmin GPS in his '00 Z3, don't be confused when you read it.)

DaveT writes:
"If you are not hardwiring any other devices, it is extremely important to cover the female snap connector on the red power cable with electrical tape as insulation against accidental connections. Also cover the unused male ground connector with tape. Since Rachel would be using only the switched power for her V1, we taped her unused connectors."

DaveT explains switched and unswitched power: "When connected to 'switched' power, a device will have power only when the ignition switch is turned on. When connected to 'unswitched' power, a device will have power as long as the car battery is alive and connected."

I am going to want unswitched power, so I can continue a conversation uninterrupted if I shut off the car during a phone call.

So... lucky for me all I had to do was look for the taped unused connectors under my gearshift boot waiting to be accessed (he used them for his GPS). Thanks DaveT! To aid you in the search for power, use a volt meter to verify that "Pin #1 is 12volts unswitched, pin #2 is ground and pin #5 was 12volts switched." More about this- at least for Z3 owners- on MZ3.net in the article: "Finding Power in your Center Console" by Vince Parsons.

Mount the Phone:
You dont have to mount the phone because the Bluetooth Kit has voice commands for dialing and answering the phone and the Bluetooth connection will work as long as your phone is on and in the car but if you want to see the phone you can use any mounting solution.

This is a Proclip mount with a Proclip holder	This clips on to the console. A great no-drill solution. But I need to use this mount for my iPod.
This Panavise mount goes by the center vent at the dash, but I don't like the panavise holders, so I screwed a Proclip holder (plastic) to the Panavise mount (metal).	The Panavise mount is meant to be screwed into the body wall here- but I wont do that. I have some heavy duty double stick tape and some heavy duty adhesive-backed velcro to try.
Even without adhesive or screwing it in, the mount sits pretty well.	The center vent holds it pretty well in place and the phone is light.

Stash the Junction Box:

The Motorola Bluetooth Junction box is about the size of a cheese sandwich. I jammed it in front of the gearshift under the HVAC- as carefully as a person can jam something.	I tested everything out before I placed the microphone.
Do NOT try to use this as a route. The cover is holding up the doorbell chime speaker on the inside of the console and it doesn't go through.	PDRM0776

Place the Microphone:

To the right of the Z3 steering wheel is a knockout blank where the Euro Z3s have headlight height adjustment.	It's very easy to thread the microphone cord to the junction box at the bottom of the HVAC. I mean to drill a cutout for the cord in the blank but it snapped in as it was..
I used some of the same electrical tape I used to "fix" the check engine light to "mount" the microphone.	It was meant to be temporary but it works really well so I think I will leave it. Even driving top down (windows up) the mike seems to be able to pick up my voice well enough for callers to hear me without straining.

Place the Control Module:

So far I have left theControl Module just in front of the gear shift, with it's cord squeezed by the front of the gearshift boot. I could velcro it to the console but it seems to sit there without it.

Night time drive is very James Bond.

Blonde, James Blonde. I am talking on my cell, getting in the car, turn the car on and the phone transfers itself to the car kit. I put the phone in the holder and keep talking as I choose my destination and select my favorite tunes on the iPod. While talking, the Traffic Pro give me navigation instructions, which my caller can hear. I hang up the phone either by voice command or by pressing that round glowing blue button on the Control Module. My tunes come on, sounding better than the CD changer. (Works with the CD changer too.) The phone rings, with a series of beeps through the Traffic Pro. I touch the Control Module to answer, the music mutes itself. There is a phone mute button on the Control Module if I need privacy or a firetruck goes by. It's all just too easy. Really I don't like to talk on the phone in the car, but if I have to, this is the way to do it. End of the drive, if I am still on the phone, I just press the Control Module for 3 seconds and the call transfers back to the phone. I pick it up and leave the car continuing the call. Automatic. Wireless. Controlled by Speed Sensitive Volume. One less reason for the police to stop me.